Backwaters, ayurveda, temples and beaches….these comprise the itinerary of most people who visit Kerala. Rightly so.
But, for the more adventurous types, I feel that a visit to Kerala is incomplete without a visit to a toddy shop.
So, let me tell you something about toddy. Toddy is a beverage that is tapped from palm trees. You can call it a form of local wine.
Kerala has plenty of palm trees. So, toddy is available in plenty. The best toddy is available in the morning. Let me put it another way – the best toddy is the one that is fresh.
There are some people who have toddy that is a little old, but that is very difficult to consume because of the smell. The smell is pretty overpowering. And, when I say old, I mean just a few hours. Anything more, that thing is not fit for drinking. Very unlike wine.
People who have palm trees tap the toddy, and have it at home. But, for the rest of us, the surplus is sold in toddy shops, mostly in villages because they are closer to the trees.
You cannot transport toddy very far. In the time it takes to transport the toddy, the beverage becomes unfit for consumption.
Even otherwise, let me tell you that the taste is not for everyone.
But, most people should like it. It’s got a kind of Sprite or Limca flavour. Lot of zing. Like, Sprite or Limca come with soda. Toddy has that flavour and feel in its natural form.
Personally, toddy is definitely better than whiskey, vodka, rum, etc. It’s a natural drink, organic… unprocessed, right off the tree.
Only thing is, you need to consume it as soon as it is tapped. Hence, you need to visit Kerala to try toddy.
And, I feel toddy alone is totally worth a visit to Kerala.
Look, toddy is good, but what I really, really like is the sides that you get in these shops. Most often, they are non-vegetarian. But, the taste is simply awesome.
They are all small eats, spicy. Actually, very spicy. Just right to go with toddy.
The interesting part is that toddy shops are becoming very popular among tourists. Apparently, it is not unusual for families to turn up on weekends. Yea…entire families turn up on weekends. Not just to try the toddy, but also the food that they prepare.
In contrast, once upon a time, toddy shops were infamous. Places where only the scum of the lot would frequent. And, those who frequented toddy shops were frowned upon.
Over time, these shops have lost their attraction. Regulars are no longer interested. Maybe, they have moved on to better beverages.
But, this loss of business from regulars is now creating an opportunity for a new clientele. This new clientele may not become regulars. They visit toddy shops for the novelty. Hence, occasionally.
This new clientele wants to see what toddy shops are all about. The forbidden places that they used of hear stories about while growing up.
Like I mentioned earlier, toddy shops are not only about toddy. At least for people like me, who prefer the sides over the main beverage.
And, toddy shops have a lot to offer in terms of sides. The most common is kappa (tapioca). Then you have meen (fish)….and it goes on. Whatever is locally available is turned into a side dish to go with the toddy.
So, it’s not just the toddy; you have a lot more to try.
And, though I did say that toddy is not for everyone, I also say that everyone should try toddy, at least once. You never know. You might just like it. In fact, I would go so far as to say that those who like a Breezer might find the taste and feel familiar.
The new clientele has had some impact on the people running toddy shops. The traditional drink is experiencing a lot of variation and variety.
Some people are adding ginger, grape, grape juice, or other things, to the toddy. A lot of experimenting is happening. All for the new clientele. Because, the purists may scoff at the mere thought, but the new clientele is lapping it up. Remember, new clientele also includes families.
I did not get an opportunity to try these new variations, but I have no regrets. I am very happy with my original toddy.
Ironical that the places that were once shunned and relegated to dark corners of villages are now turning into a tourist attraction.
To find these shops, it’s not like you need someone. When you drive on inside roads, you can find shops on the way. A little bit of exploring is needed. Yea…if you have a guide, it’s even better, and you save time. But, it’s not that you need a guide for all these things. Nowadays, it’s pretty easy, with maps and all.
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